Balenciaga exhibit

“L’oeuvre au noir”: a Balenciaga exhibit in the Bourdelle Museum, in PARIS.

This exhibit displays the work of Balenciaga: hats, sketches, dresses, prototypes…  Balenciaga is clearly a designer in search of simplicity : if he loves pink, it is obvious that he mostly creates black dresses, which convey authenticity.

Balenciaga prototype

Yet, if he refuses other colors than black, he gives depth to his creation, which combine volume, shine and folds of fabrics -hence transforming his designs into an artwork.

The exhibit starts with photographs of his work, taken by Thomas Kublin starting in 1957. Here is a mixture of sketches’ and creations’ photographs taken either in studios or avenue George V,  in Paris.

Then hanging dresses are on display in the “black drapes” category. In fact, Balenciaga would use this “drapery” technique so as to enhance and get the most of a fabric.

Dress, 1956, silk taffeta

Capes 1961 (gazar) and Summer 1961 (silk taffeta)

Night dresses, 1963 (gazar) and 1962 (silk)

Night dress 1965/1966 (silk velvet)

Night dress around 1960 (silk lace)

Afterwards, the exhibit gathers dresses that embody “black and sheen”, a duality of light and shade. In fact, this duality is highly symbolic, as in Spain -Balenciaga’s birthplace-, shiny black (niger in Latin)  epistomizes elegance, whereas matt black (ater in Latin)  connotes grief and darkness.

Cocktail ensemble (dress and suit) 1965 (organza, satin and silk ribbon)

Dress and suit ensemble, 1965 (Abraham lurex) and coat, Summer 1962 (silk taffeta) 

Balenciaga necklace (shiny perls)

Bustier, Winter 1945 (velvet silk, embroidered sequins)

 

Balenciaga uses a lot of black shades. Nevertheless, he adds a touch of colour in some of his creations, mostly black and pink, which is mainly suggested by an other section of the exhibit, called “black and colours”. In fact, he found the confontation of black and white particularly interesting. His black and white designs bring to mind Spanish monarchs’ clothes and bourgeois outfits. Pink tones, either violent or soft, evoke toreadors’ costumes.

Cape, around 1962 (silk) -I particularly love it.

Finally, the “black and transparency” theme is mentioned. The combination of both elements allowed Balenciaga to design clothes which examplified subtle delicateness, Spanish folklore, devotion, creasing, and vibration.

Bolero and dress ensemble, 1964 (Abraham silk) -one of my favourites.

Night dress , around 1940 (silk crepe)

Dress, 1968 (silk crepe) -one of the most beautiful among all Balenciaga’s dresses to me.

What is your favorite dress? Have you seen the exhibit? If not you should go: it is definitely worth it.

XO

LFB