Picture: Susan Barnett Serie “Not in your face” 2011/2018
I went to the exhibit Back side at the Bourdelle museum in Paris. It displays clothes from the 18th century to today.
1/The wake
Picture above: Balenciaga night gown A/W 1961/2 (my favourite dress of the exhibit!)
Picture above: Jean-Paul Gaultier “bent arabesque” trench-coat dress, skirt and belt A/W 2011/2
Trains emphasize the back. They belonged to wealthy people during the 13th century. During the 19th century they embroidered night gowns and wedding dresses. They inspired Balenciaga and Yohji Yamamoto during the 20th century, displaying pieces with volume.
Picture above: Maggy Rouff wedding dress and belt 1934
Picture above: Rick Owens Alix top and Tungsten skirt
2/The back: Jeanloup Sieff
Photographs, are like painters: they both chose the back as a topic. Jeanloup Sieff especially favoured the back in his pictures.
3/Forgetfulness
Picture above: Yohji Yamamoto Dress and skirt A/W 1996/7
The back is often forgotten in the history of fashion.
4/The load
Picture above: Prada satchel 1984
The load is incarnated by satchels.
Picture above: Walter Van Beirrendonck, A/W 2019/20
5/Wings
Wings have fascinated men since Antiquity.
Picture above: Thierry Mugler “winged dress” the winter of the angels A/W 1984/5
Picture above: Comme des garçons suit bermuda shorts A/W 2013/4
6/The shackle
Picture above: John Galliano dress A/W 1998/9
In western societies, only women bear clothes that are closed in the back. On the contrary, very few men clothes close on the back. Here, the back symbolizes submission.
Picture above: on the right Lanvin dress A/W 2010/11, on the left Yohji Yamamoto dress and hat S/S 2018
7/Backless
Picture above: YSL short night gown A/W 1970/1
Backless is intertwined with eroticism. The first backlesses date back from the 19th century.
8/Brand
Picture above: Alexander Mcqueen coat S/S 1999
Brand names appear on clothes during the 20th century. They are used for advertising.
What are your favourite clothes? Did you go to this exhibit? Are there any other nice fashion exhibits in your country at the moment?
Picture above: Martine Sitbon dress A/W 1997/1998
Let me know.
XO
LFB
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